Made by a Child: The Flapper’s Magazette Edited by Miss Vivie Wivie

Flapper-OctoberAccording to Ellen Welles Page, brains, not beauty, defined the flapper.  In her “A Flapper’s Appeal to Parents” in the December 6, 1922 Outlook Magazine, she asked, “I wonder if it ever occurred to any of you that it required brains to become and remain a successful flapper?  Indeed it does!  It requires an enormous amount of cleverness and energy to keep going at the proper pace.  It requires self-knowledge and self-analysis.  We must know our capabilities and limitations.  We must be constantly on the alert.  Attainment of flapperhood is a big and serious undertaking!”

This message didn’t just appeal to young ladies, but to little girls as well.   Below Pauline Z. is avidly reading Flapper Experience (Flapper under a new title)

little flapper

If Pauline were a regular reader, she would have been solicited regularly to enter mail-in beauty contests, a serious undertaking that required brains, self-knowledge, and self-analysis to chose the right photo.  The editors of the magazine would not go so far as to say that aspirants for the title of “most typical flapper in America” should rock “bobbed hair; powder and rouge on the face;…lip stick; ‘plucked eyebrows;’ low-cut sleeveless bodice; absence of corset; little under-clothing, often only a ‘teddy-bear;’ high skirts, and ‘roll-your-own-stockings.”  But they did say that an enterprising girl with a great look just might “win a nice little wad of pin money and get a real opportunity in the movies.”

flapper beauty contest 2 flapper beauty contest

One English girl in the 1920s set her sights higher than that!  She used her brains to write, illustrate, and hand-letter one issue of a manuscript magazine that simultaneously imitated and sent up magazines like Flapper for thoroughly modern Millies.

flappers_magazette_cover

The Flapper’s Magazette. [Teddington, England, between 1924 and 1933?]. (Cotsen 8784)

Our editor could mimic Flapper’s fashionably breezy and girly style when she wanted her sister-readers’ opinion of the magazine’s title.  But in the next sentence she could turn bossy because it was time to solicit entries for that exciting new contest!

flapper's magazette_editors_chat

To fill out the double page spread where “Editor’s Chat” appeared, she devised an unillustrated advertisement for an imaginary beauty product.  The reader has to flip back to page 8 to see the wonders it could work on dark hair.  It’s the girl’s obvious pleasure in talking back to contemporary images of female beauty that reminds me of today’s girl zines.

flapper's magazette_editors_chat_2 flappers magazette_girl_in_purple

The editor of The Flapper’s Magazette  didn’t leave behind many clues as to her identity, besides some potshots about a sister with gentleman callers that suggest she could have been someone’s pesky younger sibling.  Most of the illustrations she signed  “V. F.” or “V. F. F.,” but the one on the third page she wrote out her last name “Furniss.”   The address of the editorial offices: “Messrs, Vivie, Wivie, Den Offices, Teddington” suggests that her first name might have been “Vivien.”  While it’s true that children’s manuscript magazines often are collaborative projects, “Vivie, Wivie” seems just as likely to be a silly play on a two-syllable given name, as a disguise for two children.  The address may also be a clue that Miss V. F. Furniss lived in Teddington in London’s Richmond upon Thames district.

flapper's_magazette_heads_contest

Mail-in contests certainly made an impression on our editor.  She invites her readers to vie for fine prizes (no specifics given) by submitting heads constructed from the  noses, eyebrows, Betty-Boop eyes, and bee-stung lips to be cut out of pages 10 and 15.

flapper's_magazette_heads_contest_pieces_1 flapper's_ magazette_heads_contest_pieces_2

Contestants might have wished that there were a bigger selection of hairstyles, hats, and collars.  As you can see from the picture below of Clara Bow and friends, it would have been difficult to come up with a really smart head from what Vivie Wivie provided!

clara_bow_girls

The other contest sponsored by The Flapper’s Magazette was literary.  All contestants had to do was to complete a limerick about  It-Girl, Clara Bow, whose portrait appears on the facing page.

flapper's_magazette_limerick_contest

Look closely at “Clara Bow” and you’ll see a long braid draped over her arm.  I’d always assumed it was a row of buttons down the sleeve.  But in going through the manuscript this time to write about it, I realized that couldn’t be right and that V. F. Furniss may not have been drawing accurate pictures of fashionable girls.

flapper's magazette_clara_bow clara bow 2

But could flappers have long hair?  According to some very informative blogs and You-Tube videos about hair styles of the Roaring Twenties and how to recreate them, it’s a myth that all flappers had bobs.  Movie star Mary Pickford’s long luscious golden ringlets were also quite stylish.  But even if a girl’s parents  stormed that she would cut her hair over their dead bodies, the unfortunate fair had options.  It was possible with a little ingenuity and hair pins to achieve the look of short, curly hair, as you can see from this delightful video, based on an actual 1920s hairstyling manual.

My guess is that V. F. Furniss was too young to get permission to chop off her hair, but old enough to be interested in figuring out how she would present herself in the future.  While most of the girls she drew in The Flapper’s Magazette had bobs, at least three of them, including “The Charming Flapper,” had hair tucked under in faux bobs with long braids down the back.  Were her illustrations a safe way to experiment with different looks without taking the plunge?  While attracted to modern short styles, was she a little bit scared at the prospect  herself as a votary of fashion, sacrificing her long tresses on the goddess’ altar?

Maybe some day I’ll have some time to try and track down V. F. Furniss, girl journalist and cultural commentator…

If you find child authors interesting,  you might like to read the picture letters of Marcus French.  In the Roaring Twenties, this little New Yorker wrote about trick-or-treating, a Thanksgiving celebration, and his travails with algebra

 

 

 

 

Cotsen’s Covert Collections, part 1: A Pair of Burmese (Myanma) Buddhist Manuscripts

Around Princeton, Cotsen Children’s Library is most often referred to as “the children’s library” (with a myriad of connotations). In the research community, the library is well-known for its wealth of children’s literature, folk tales, educational material, toys, manuscripts, and juvenilia. Material is available in scores of languages spanning the last 400 hundred years or so. But Cotsen is also home to an array of fantastic and surprisingly rare material that most wouldn’t expect to find given our collection interests and reputation.

In a blog series I’d like to call “Cotsen’s Covert Collections” (so I’m calling it that), I will showcase some of the more unexpected collections material that I come across. These are the items that I find in the vaults that make me say: “I can’t believe we have this. I don’t quite know what it is, but this is really cool!”.

The first items I’d like to show are a pair of Burmese (Myanma) Buddhist manuscripts:

2 volumes, Cotsen 101728

2 volumes, Burmese Buddhist manuscripts. [Myanmar, ca. 1890] (Cotsen 101728)

The shape of these manuscripts differs drastically from a typical Western bound manuscript. Both feature accordion folded sections of rag paper pasted together between highly decorative red and gold painted wood boards.

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The manuscripts have no spine like in a typical codex. The sheets are pasted together at even intervals and stacked, they are only connected to the binding at the terminal ends.

Each panel can be read separately or the whole work can be unfolded vertically like a wall chart. In this way, the manuscripts are something between a bound manuscript and a scroll. Unlike a western manuscript or a typical scroll, however, the works are double-sided. On one side the works feature hand painted illustrations and text, on the reverse side the works feature only inscribed text.

The top manuscript in the first picture above.

The top manuscript in the first picture above.

The bottom manuscript in the first picture above.

The bottom manuscript in the first picture above.

The record indicates that both manuscripts were made around 1890 in Burma (Myanmar). This information was probably provided from a dealer’s description which we no longer have with us. Though the items themselves provide no indication of place or date (as far as I can tell) the manuscript style is iconically Burmese; and we’ll just have to take the date on face value for now.

Judging by the skill of the paintings, the mistakes in the texts, and the similarities of the works, I think it’s safe to assume that one artist probably authored both works; and that he or she was an amateur or novice.

Though my knowledge of the Burmese (Myanmar) language can hardly be called knowledge, the script does seem to differ from modern Burmese. My guess is that the manuscripts were written in Burmese-pali as is typical of other more ornate Buddhist manuscripts from Myanmar called Kammavaca. Burmese-pali uses an older form of Burmese script in order to write the Pali language, the liturgical language of Theravada Buddhism (the dominant branch of Buddhism in South East Asia). ***A blog comment by pansuriya (see comment below) has corrected my supposition above. The text panels are in the Shan language while the image descriptions are indeed in Burmese. I have also turned the text images 180 degrees since I depicted the text upside down.

The first manuscript seems to depict various previous lives of the Buddha juxtaposed against his final earthly state. Called Jataka tales, stories about previous lives of the Buddha are moral tales in which a particular virtue is correctly exercised by the Buddha in one of his past forms:

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1st panel, Possibly a short depiction of The Story of Chaddanta Elephant

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4th panel

Of course, the text on the reverse side of the manuscript would probably offer further clues about the content of the images. Unfortunately, we don’t yet know what the text says either:

First text panel

First text panel

Last text panel

Last text panel

The second manuscript might be focused on scenes from the life of Siddhārtha Gautama, but I’ll admit it’s difficult for me to discern:

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2nd panel

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6th panel (luckily this final panel is not stained by red dust which has soiled the rest of the work)

First text panel

First text panel

Last text panel

Last text panel

By including items like these on the blog, I hope to make it more transparent that Cotsen has a variety of materials that one would not expect at “the children’s library”. Hopefully, bringing these objects to light means that someone more knowledgeable than me can help us discover more about these wonderful (and under-described) materials. We have a range of unusual or unexpected artifacts, books, and objects. I hope this blog series will inspire researchers to see what else they can find in our collection.